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Aerated concrete is an easy to work material, inexpensive, but above all much lighter than plasterboard. This should not be overlooked when the work undertaken takes place in an apartment located on the upper floors of a building. We are in a small bathroom that we are going to partition. A bathtub-shower corner and a laundry area (on the right) where the washing machine (and possibly a dryer above) will be placed. Of course, beforehand, we took care to check that the space is sufficient for the installation of the washing machine and provided the wall height essential to separate the wet area from the electrical equipment. Difficulty : way. Cost : less than a hundred euros. Tools required : - cellular concrete blocks 10 cm and 15 cm thick. - adhesive mortar for cellular concrete. - a spirit level. - a handsaw or special aerated concrete saw (with large teeth). - a hammer. - a mason's trough, a trowel or a glue comb. - a drill. - a threaded end of rod and a hacksaw. - a pencil and a ruler.
Step 1: Draw the marks
Before you start, make a mental representation of the desired result, and anticipate any difficulties you may face, by proceeding in stages. Think about it, it is better to sit down and take 10 minutes to think than to find yourself stuck in front of a dead end that would force you to dismantle everything.
Using the level, take the vertical with respect to the edge of the bathtub. Draw the line on the ground vertically, this is the limit not to be crossed by laying your first blocks. To this line, you add 3 or 4 mm necessary to install a silicone joint.
It is necessary to leave an access to the plumbing by fitting a trap door. Our wall is very thick at this location, we will leave the 40 cm regulatory so that it is easy to access the drainage system and the water inlet fittings.
Step 2: Start your wall
Do not be stingy on the glue, it is she who will solidify the whole. In the same way, do not put too much either, because you risk creating a gap between the blocks that you will have to compensate by adding always more glue.
Mount your wall in staggered rows, the vertical joints should never end up facing each other. To do this, once you reach the end of a row, replace the last block cut at the beginning of the next row. Press by placing them until the glue slightly overflows. Remove the excess immediately with the trowel.
At each block, check the verticality and horizontality. Use the hammer to correct any variations, tapping (gently) where you want to correct its tilt. This is why it is necessary to put enough glue to have a sufficient margin of maneuver by crushing the glue in certain places in order to correct the horizontality.
Step 3: Support the hanging blocks
The blocks above the inspection hatch will only be supported on one side. Also, we get around this little difficulty by inserting two ends of threaded rods into the wall. Make sure that the pieces of rods have the same length on the outside, we will see why after. These will support the block which will lean against the wall, the time of drying, but also thereafter, consolidating the less solid structure at this location.
The wall goes up and we arrive at the moment when it is necessary to place the block in support. We present it straight and press its end on the threaded rods.
Push the block with a sharp blow so that the imprint of the rods marks the place where they will enter the block. Hence the importance of having the same length of rod to obtain two separate markings at the same time.
Drill at the markings on a length slightly greater than that of the sticks that stick out. Widen the hole well, we will fill it with glue so that the grip is perfect.
Step 4: The tablet
Here, the shelf for resting the toiletries is finished (left). It will then be necessary to give it a slight inclination when laying the tiles. The access hatch provides good access to the plumbing. So we can continue our ascent.
Still checking the verticality, we mount the wall up to a height of 2.20 meters.
Step 5: The return
We will now return to the tablet to limit splashing water and to hide the bottles that will inevitably invade this space.
Top view. The hammer is placed on the shelf. It is very solid and its height (95 cm) will prevent the user from bending down to grab the shampoo bottle.
Step 6: Storage
The very large front panel will be used to make useful storage. The lower part, too low, does not interest us. So we just wall it up.
Little by little, the first milestones of storage are taking shape. At this time, it is possible to finish by coating the bottoms and blocks that are difficult to access afterwards.
Here, we build the storage up to the height of the return, but lower than the wall. We will be able to place a plant or a decorative object there. The last box is created higher, enough to place bottles, such as deodorants, hairspray ...
Step 7: Coat and finish
The washing machine and storage side will be coated and painted, while the shower side will be tiled. Before laying the tiles on the bath side, a primer may be applied, then a waterproofing resin under the tiles. On the other side, we can make a gobetis or apply a coating coating if the wall has a lot of imperfections, and if not, directly use a smoothing coating in two passes, of one millimeter each.Tips for tearing down a partition Our practical DIY videos